Although quite satisfied with my modified GS tall screen (see my earlier biketech pages and my page on the Chain Gang site, also referred to as "Pazzo's adjustable screen" , some part of my mind continued to search for a solution that would allow me to drive well over 80 mph without visor or earplugs, and allow me to raise or lower the screen as required depending on on/off-road conditions. The solution should also be cosmetically acceptable and affordable. After my implementation, early summer 2002, of the modified screen I therefore kept checking out aftermarket screens as well as the original screens of basically any bike that crossed my path.

Now, almost two years later, I can confirm that the Ultimate 650GS screen solution exists! The ultimate screen is even a better fit than I thought: The answer to all problems is solved by the purchase of the tall screen of big BMW brother K1200GT.

Price and size
Let's start with the price: The cost for this screen is in the $100 range (I paid € 92 for it in Holland). The price itself is already amazing: One easily has to pay over $ 150 for the average aftermarket screen, so getting a BMW screen for this price is terrific. The screen has a total length of over 20" and has a top section that is extra wide, with a curved top to further deflect the wind. Just like the original 650 tall screen it is made from cast polycarbonate. Being designed for the K1200GT it is certainly strong enough to handle wind pressure up to the 100-some mile maximum speed of the 650GS.

Design
The K1200GT screen has a bottom width that almost perfectly matches the width of the 650GS standard silver wind deflector. The wide top not only allows enough space for the 650 mirrors to pass when making sharp turns or locking the bike in Park, but even accommodates my Dakar handlebar protectors. After mounting the screen I was amazed how well it aligns with the 650GS shape and even my purist BMW dealer found it a very compatible solution. The "lip" at the top further improves wind deflection and eliminates neck fatigue, allowing you to drive multiple hours with high comfort. The screen is specified by BMW as "comfort windshield" (see type number below) for the K1200GT. Note: This screen is slightly different from the comfort screens of the K1200RS.

Comparison with other screens
I've tested the Ermax screen and similar Dakar screen. They both are too narrow and cause buffeting and have poor wind deflection. For that reason, I modified the tall 650GS screen ("Trevor style") to make it movable. This eliminated most of the buffeting but looses its effect above 75-80 mph. It also is too narrow, so there will still be quite some wind on your upper body.
The GIVI screen is no different than the tall BMW screen, so no improvement. I like the shape of the Wunderlich screen, but it is in essence not that much different from the Ermax or Dakar. It further is rather thin and does not offer the length to deflect wind above 70-75 mph.
The Parabellum is certainly more effective, but it has a poor match with the 650GS cockpit and also needs more work to mount.
Last but not least: The Cee Bailey is a definitive step forward. With its 21" height it is the right size, but the lower mounting and rather narrow top makes it less effective and it is 40% more expensive.

The K1200GT screen beats all of the above screens by an order of magnitude. It is manufactured by BMW with thick, high quality, cast polycarbonate. It has an excellent fit, and does on the 650GS exactly what it does on the K1200GT: Eliminate virtually all wind up to around 100 mph.

On the K1200GT, the screen is connected via four cast mounting handles to levers that allow the screen to be either manually (K1200GT 2001/2002) or electrically (2003/2004) lowered and raised about 4" to make touring more comfortable. These four handles form part of the polycarbonate cast and offer a perfect match for the connection to the 650GS (series up to 2003). The two lower handles are just far enough apart to allow them to be attached to the upper screws of the standard 650GS deflector via two "Z" shaped thin steel mounting plates, while the two higher handles almost perfectly fit the metal bars that I've already used for my earlier tall screen modification. Material costs for the construction should be under $20. I started with a prototype that took an hour or two to build. After driving several hundred miles with the prototype I created the final version that is described below. With the drawings below you should be able to build this solution in a few hours (excluding paint work).

Driving test and Conclusion
I have now driven with the screen for some 1000 miles without any problems. Of these 1000 miles, 600 were done in a single day driving back and forth from Amsterdam to Frankfurt. Where, prior to this screen, I would have been quite tired after riding this bike for almost 10 hours (including a nice trip along the Rhine river, see pic below), I now felt great and would do it again tomorrow.

For my 6 ft length the screen is ideal. I expect that the screen will probably accommodate lengths up to about 6'4". I can drive with open visor and without earplugs at speeds up to 100 mph. No buffeting or other wind problems. The wide top also deflects the wind from the upper body, and eliminates sidewinds when making turns at high speeds, which are nice extras. The construction is very robust and has survived some basic off-road driving. Another side effect: The larger screen puts more pressure on the front wheel at high speeds and therefore reduces the tendency to 'lift'. Play around with the height of the screen once you've installed it. I noticed that the wind deflection from the curved top actually is better when the screen is a bit more horizontal (=higher wind speeds), so maximum height does not always mean minimum wind.

Needless to say this has significantly increased my pleasure of riding the 650GS, allowing me to hop on without bothering about ear protection and having comfortable long drives even in light rain, as nearly all wind and rain is deflected by the screen. One remark, based on experience: The curved top deflector was created to deflect wind only. Mosquitos at 100 mph will not be much deflected, so eyeglasses are advised when you plan to drive with an open visor at these higher speeds.

Good luck and many enjoyable driving hours at 100+mph!
Gert ("Pazzo")

2004©AntarticaGalleries

In the middle of the above image you'll see two "Z" shaped mounting plates that you'll need to make from thin steel (1 mm, or 1/16"). Make sure you use steel. Aluminum will not be able to sustain the bike's vibrations or needs to be much thicker. Bending these braces in the proper shape is the only key activity that is needed, so take your time. To assist you with this work, I've created a model of the "Z" below. If you're not comfortable using this model, don't hesitate to make your own model from a piece of cardboard. It only takes a few minutes to cut a model and it helps you understand its shape and the fact that the two Z's need to be mirror (!!!) image.

The "Z" plates are used to connect the top screws of the silver wind deflector to the two lower handles on the K1200GT screen. The reason for having the "Z" shaped profile is that I expect that, sooner or later, one of these handles of the K1200 screen may crack or break. This happens sometimes on the K1200GT when people try to adjust the screen at 130 mph, is what my BMW repair shop told me. While constructing the mounting plate you only need to spend a few extra minutes to bend the "Z" shape, rather than creating the more simple "L" shape. Should one of the handles of the screen come off you can mount the screen again by drilling a small hole through the screen into the mounting plate and using the nut and (self-locking) bolt to fix it again.

Use the model below to obtain the correct scale for creating the mounting plate (apologies for using metric here: 75 mm equals 3") and bend the plate according to the Z-shape on the right hand side of the drawing. I made the mounting plates from a single steel joist hanger with width of around 3 1/2" and similar bearing. They're available in any Home Depot or equivalent shop for under $2. After cutting the basic shape (see middle picture below) and bending it in accordance with the model, you'll need to drill the two holes on the indicated spots. The only time consuming part left is to (spray) paint them, but I suggest you only do that after you've tested them with the screen. In that case you'll need to be a bit extra careful with the screen. Polycarbonate/lexan is easily scratched.

Above: completed and painted "Z"

Below: "Z" mounted to screen